Monday, July 30, 2012

"Stop! for thy tread is on an empire's dust!" (17-45)

Playing dress-up at Waterloo

The Waterloo Monument

A view of the killing fields from the top of the monument at Waterloo
Statue of Napoleon at Waterloo

Napoleon makes his battle plans

Napoleon
Cantos on Waterloo and Napoleon, 17-45. Photos of the area. Reflections on Napoleon's efforts to create a unified Europe and the situation of Europe today. Brussels as the administrative center of the the EU.


Waterloo fields

One of the many monuments at Waterloo

Waterloo Fields






South Gate of the Hoguemont Farmhouse

North Gate of the Hoguement Farmhouse

Two hundred years after Napoleon's efforts to establish a unified modern Europe were ended at Waterloo, the European Union's "capitol" has arisen in Brussels, only a few miles from Waterloo.




EU Building in Brussels

Flags of the Member Nations






Brussels Center














XVII.

   Stop! for thy tread is on an empire's dust!
   An earthquake's spoil is sepulchred below!
   Is the spot marked with no colossal bust?
   Nor column trophied for triumphal show?
   None; but the moral's truth tells simpler so,
   As the ground was before, thus let it be; -
   How that red rain hath made the harvest grow!
   And is this all the world has gained by thee,
Thou first and last of fields! king-making Victory?
XVIII.

   And Harold stands upon this place of skulls,
   The grave of France, the deadly Waterloo!
   How in an hour the power which gave annuls
   Its gifts, transferring fame as fleeting too!
   In 'pride of place' here last the eagle flew,
   Then tore with bloody talon the rent plain,
   Pierced by the shaft of banded nations through:
   Ambition's life and labours all were vain;
He wears the shattered links of the world's broken chain.

XIX.

   Fit retribution!  Gaul may champ the bit,
   And foam in fetters, but is Earth more free?
   Did nations combat to make ONE submit;
   Or league to teach all kings true sovereignty?
   What! shall reviving thraldom again be
   The patched-up idol of enlightened days?
   Shall we, who struck the Lion down, shall we
   Pay the Wolf homage? proffering lowly gaze
And servile knees to thrones?  No; PROVE before ye praise!

XX.

   If not, o'er one fall'n despot boast no more!
   In vain fair cheeks were furrowed with hot tears
   For Europe's flowers long rooted up before
   The trampler of her vineyards; in vain years
   Of death, depopulation, bondage, fears,
   Have all been borne, and broken by the accord
   Of roused-up millions:  all that most endears
   Glory, is when the myrtle wreathes a sword
Such as Harmodius drew on Athens' tyrant lord.

XXI.

   There was a sound of revelry by night,
   And Belgium's capital had gathered then
   Her Beauty and her Chivalry, and bright
   The lamps shone o'er fair women and brave men;
   A thousand hearts beat happily; and when
   Music arose with its voluptuous swell,
   Soft eyes looked love to eyes which spake again,
   And all went merry as a marriage bell;
But hush! hark! a deep sound strikes like a rising knell!

XXII.

   Did ye not hear it?--No; 'twas but the wind,
   Or the car rattling o'er the stony street;
   On with the dance! let joy be unconfined;
   No sleep till morn, when Youth and Pleasure meet
   To chase the glowing Hours with flying feet.
   But hark!--that heavy sound breaks in once more,
   As if the clouds its echo would repeat;
   And nearer, clearer, deadlier than before!
Arm! arm! it is--it is--the cannon's opening roar!

XXIII.

   Within a windowed niche of that high hall
   Sate Brunswick's fated chieftain; he did hear
   That sound, the first amidst the festival,
   And caught its tone with Death's prophetic ear;
   And when they smiled because he deemed it near,
   His heart more truly knew that peal too well
   Which stretched his father on a bloody bier,
   And roused the vengeance blood alone could quell:
He rushed into the field, and, foremost fighting, fell.

XXIV.

   Ah! then and there was hurrying to and fro,
   And gathering tears, and tremblings of distress,
   And cheeks all pale, which but an hour ago
   Blushed at the praise of their own loveliness;
   And there were sudden partings, such as press
   The life from out young hearts, and choking sighs
   Which ne'er might be repeated:  who would guess
   If ever more should meet those mutual eyes,
Since upon night so sweet such awful morn could rise!

XXV.

   And there was mounting in hot haste:  the steed,
   The mustering squadron, and the clattering car,
   Went pouring forward with impetuous speed,
   And swiftly forming in the ranks of war;
   And the deep thunder peal on peal afar;
   And near, the beat of the alarming drum
   Roused up the soldier ere the morning star;
   While thronged the citizens with terror dumb,
Or whispering, with white lips--'The foe!  They come! they come!'

XXVI.

   And wild and high the 'Cameron's gathering' rose,
   The war-note of Lochiel, which Albyn's hills
   Have heard, and heard, too, have her Saxon foes:
   How in the noon of night that pibroch thrills
   Savage and shrill!  But with the breath which fills
   Their mountain-pipe, so fill the mountaineers
   With the fierce native daring which instils
   The stirring memory of a thousand years,
And Evan's, Donald's fame rings in each clansman's ears.

XXVII.

   And Ardennes waves above them her green leaves,
   Dewy with Nature's tear-drops, as they pass,
   Grieving, if aught inanimate e'er grieves,
   Over the unreturniug brave,--alas!
   Ere evening to be trodden like the grass
   Which now beneath them, but above shall grow
   In its next verdure, when this fiery mass
   Of living valour, rolling on the foe,
And burning with high hope, shall moulder cold and low.

XXVIII.

   Last noon beheld them full of lusty life,
   Last eve in Beauty's circle proudly gay,
   The midnight brought the signal-sound of strife,
   The morn the marshalling in arms,--the day
   Battle's magnificently stern array!
   The thunder-clouds close o'er it, which when rent
   The earth is covered thick with other clay,
   Which her own clay shall cover, heaped and pent,
Rider and horse,--friend, foe,--in one red burial blent!

XXIX.

   Their praise is hymned by loftier harps than mine;
   Yet one I would select from that proud throng,
   Partly because they blend me with his line,
   And partly that I did his sire some wrong,
   And partly that bright names will hallow song;
   And his was of the bravest, and when showered
   The death-bolts deadliest the thinned files along,
   Even where the thickest of war's tempest lowered,
They reached no nobler breast than thine, young, gallant Howard!

XXX.

   There have been tears and breaking hearts for thee,
   And mine were nothing, had I such to give;
   But when I stood beneath the fresh green tree,
   Which living waves where thou didst cease to live,
   And saw around me the wild field revive
   With fruits and fertile promise, and the Spring
   Come forth her work of gladness to contrive,
   With all her reckless birds upon the wing,
I turned from all she brought to those she could not bring.

XXXI.

   I turned to thee, to thousands, of whom each
   And one as all a ghastly gap did make
   In his own kind and kindred, whom to teach
   Forgetfulness were mercy for their sake;
   The Archangel's trump, not Glory's, must awake
   Those whom they thirst for; though the sound of Fame
   May for a moment soothe, it cannot slake
   The fever of vain longing, and the name
So honoured, but assumes a stronger, bitterer claim.

XXXII.

   They mourn, but smile at length; and, smiling, mourn:
   The tree will wither long before it fall:
   The hull drives on, though mast and sail be torn;
   The roof-tree sinks, but moulders on the hall
   In massy hoariness; the ruined wall
   Stands when its wind-worn battlements are gone;
   The bars survive the captive they enthral;
   The day drags through though storms keep out the sun;
And thus the heart will break, yet brokenly live on:

XXXIII.

   E'en as a broken mirror, which the glass
   In every fragment multiplies; and makes
   A thousand images of one that was,
   The same, and still the more, the more it breaks;
   And thus the heart will do which not forsakes,
   Living in shattered guise, and still, and cold,
   And bloodless, with its sleepless sorrow aches,
   Yet withers on till all without is old,
Showing no visible sign, for such things are untold.

XXXIV.

   There is a very life in our despair,
   Vitality of poison,--a quick root
   Which feeds these deadly branches; for it were
   As nothing did we die; but life will suit
   Itself to Sorrow's most detested fruit,
   Like to the apples on the Dead Sea shore,
   All ashes to the taste:  Did man compute
   Existence by enjoyment, and count o'er
Such hours 'gainst years of life,--say, would he name threescore?

XXXV.

   The Psalmist numbered out the years of man:
   They are enough:  and if thy tale be TRUE,
   Thou, who didst grudge him e'en that fleeting span,
   More than enough, thou fatal Waterloo!
   Millions of tongues record thee, and anew
   Their children's lips shall echo them, and say,
   'Here, where the sword united nations drew,
   Our countrymen were warring on that day!'
And this is much, and all which will not pass away.

XXXVI.

   There sunk the greatest, nor the worst of men,
   Whose spirit anithetically mixed
   One moment of the mightiest, and again
   On little objects with like firmness fixed;
   Extreme in all things! hadst thou been betwixt,
   Thy throne had still been thine, or never been;
   For daring made thy rise as fall:  thou seek'st
   Even now to reassume the imperial mien,
And shake again the world, the Thunderer of the scene!

XXXVII.

   Conqueror and captive of the earth art thou!
   She trembles at thee still, and thy wild name
   Was ne'er more bruited in men's minds than now
   That thou art nothing, save the jest of Fame,
   Who wooed thee once, thy vassal, and became
   The flatterer of thy fierceness, till thou wert
   A god unto thyself; nor less the same
   To the astounded kingdoms all inert,
Who deemed thee for a time whate'er thou didst assert.

XXXVIII.

   Oh, more or less than man--in high or low,
   Battling with nations, flying from the field;
   Now making monarchs' necks thy footstool, now
   More than thy meanest soldier taught to yield:
   An empire thou couldst crush, command, rebuild,
   But govern not thy pettiest passion, nor,
   However deeply in men's spirits skilled,
   Look through thine own, nor curb the lust of war,
Nor learn that tempted Fate will leave the loftiest star.

XXXIX.

   Yet well thy soul hath brooked the turning tide
   With that untaught innate philosophy,
   Which, be it wisdom, coldness, or deep pride,
   Is gall and wormwood to an enemy.
   When the whole host of hatred stood hard by,
   To watch and mock thee shrinking, thou hast smiled
   With a sedate and all-enduring eye;
   When Fortune fled her spoiled and favourite child,
He stood unbowed beneath the ills upon him piled.

XL.

   Sager than in thy fortunes; for in them
   Ambition steeled thee on too far to show
   That just habitual scorn, which could contemn
   Men and their thoughts; 'twas wise to feel, not so
   To wear it ever on thy lip and brow,
   And spurn the instruments thou wert to use
   Till they were turned unto thine overthrow:
   'Tis but a worthless world to win or lose;
So hath it proved to thee, and all such lot who choose.

XLI.

   If, like a tower upon a headland rock,
   Thou hadst been made to stand or fall alone,
   Such scorn of man had helped to brave the shock;
   But men's thoughts were the steps which paved thy throne,
   THEIR admiration thy best weapon shone;
   The part of Philip's son was thine, not then
   (Unless aside thy purple had been thrown)
   Like stern Diogenes to mock at men;
For sceptred cynics earth were far too wide a den.

XLII.

   But quiet to quick bosoms is a hell,
   And THERE hath been thy bane; there is a fire
   And motion of the soul, which will not dwell
   In its own narrow being, but aspire
   Beyond the fitting medium of desire;
   And, but once kindled, quenchless evermore,
   Preys upon high adventure, nor can tire
   Of aught but rest; a fever at the core,
Fatal to him who bears, to all who ever bore.

XLIII.

   This makes the madmen who have made men mad
   By their contagion!  Conquerors and Kings,
   Founders of sects and systems, to whom add
   Sophists, Bards, Statesmen, all unquiet things
   Which stir too strongly the soul's secret springs,
   And are themselves the fools to those they fool;
   Envied, yet how unenviable! what stings
   Are theirs!  One breast laid open were a school
Which would unteach mankind the lust to shine or rule:

XLIV.

   Their breath is agitation, and their life
   A storm whereon they ride, to sink at last,
   And yet so nursed and bigoted to strife,
   That should their days, surviving perils past,
   Melt to calm twilight, they feel overcast
   With sorrow and supineness, and so die;
   Even as a flame unfed, which runs to waste
   With its own flickering, or a sword laid by,
Which eats into itself, and rusts ingloriously.

XLV.

   He who ascends to mountain-tops, shall find
   The loftiest peaks most wrapt in clouds and snow;
   He who surpasses or subdues mankind,
   Must look down on the hate of those below.
   Though high ABOVE the sun of glory glow,
   And far BENEATH the earth and ocean spread,
   ROUND him are icy rocks, and loudly blow
   Contending tempests on his naked head,
And thus reward the toils which to those summits led.
 




Bruges, Antwerp, Maline, Leuven

Bruges Beguinage

Bruges

Bruges

Bruges

Bruges

Bruges

Horse-drawn carriages are now for tourists' amusement

Byron went to the Post in Bruges; here it is on the main square

Beautiful facades















This covers the days of travel before the visit to Waterloo.
Remarks by Polidori on these visits. Photos.



Byron and Polidori might have ridden into Antwerp in a carriage like this

Tourist transportation

Antwerp city center


Fountain in Antwerp city center

 Looking toward the port in Antwerp






Antwerp

Antwerp

Antwerp center

Antwerp



Napoleon's presence in Antwerp

View of the Port, Antwerp



Maline


Bookstore display in Maline

Close-up




Leuven cathedral

Leuven City Hall

Leuven city hall
Leuven Beguinage

"Once more upon the waters! yet once more!" (1-16)

An abrupt departure. Byron bids farewell. 


I.

Is thy face like thy mother's, my fair child!
Ada! sole daughter of my house and heart?
When last I saw thy young blue eyes, they smiled,
And then we parted,—not as now we part,
But with a hope. —
                                    Awaking with a start,
The waters heave around me; and on high
The winds lift up their voices:  I depart,
Whither I know not; but the hour's gone by,
When Albion's lessening shores could grieve or glad mine eye.

II.

Once more upon the waters! yet once more!
And the waves bound beneath me as a steed
That knows his rider.  Welcome to their roar!
Swift be their guidance, wheresoe'er it lead!
Though the strained mast should quiver as a reed,
And the rent canvas fluttering strew the gale,
Still must I on; for I am as a weed,
Flung from the rock, on Ocean's foam, to sail
Where'er the surge may sweep, the tempest's breath prevail.

III.

 In my youth's summer I did sing of One,
The wandering outlaw of his own dark mind;
Again I seize the theme, then but begun,
And bear it with me, as the rushing wind
Bears the cloud onwards:  in that tale I find
The furrows of long thought, and dried-up tears,
Which, ebbing, leave a sterile track behind,
O'er which all heavily the journeying years
Plod the last sands of life--where not a flower appears.

IV.

Since my young days of passion--joy, or pain,
Perchance my heart and harp have lost a string,
And both may jar:  it may be, that in vain
I would essay as I have sung to sing.
Yet, though a dreary strain, to this I cling,
So that it wean me from the weary dream
Of selfish grief or gladness--so it fling
 Forgetfulness around me--it shall seem
To me, though to none else, a not ungrateful theme.




V.

   He who, grown aged in this world of woe,
   In deeds, not years, piercing the depths of life,
   So that no wonder waits him; nor below
   Can love or sorrow, fame, ambition, strife,
   Cut to his heart again with the keen knife
   Of silent, sharp endurance:  he can tell
   Why thought seeks refuge in lone caves, yet rife
   With airy images, and shapes which dwell
Still unimpaired, though old, in the soul's haunted cell.

VI.

   'Tis to create, and in creating live
   A being more intense, that we endow
   With form our fancy, gaining as we give
   The life we image, even as I do now.
   What am I?  Nothing:  but not so art thou,
   Soul of my thought! with whom I traverse earth,
   Invisible but gazing, as I glow
   Mixed with thy spirit, blended with thy birth,
And feeling still with thee in my crushed feelings' dearth.

VII.

   Yet must I think less wildly:  I HAVE thought
   Too long and darkly, till my brain became,
   In its own eddy boiling and o'erwrought,
   A whirling gulf of phantasy and flame:
   And thus, untaught in youth my heart to tame,
   My springs of life were poisoned.  'Tis too late!
   Yet am I changed; though still enough the same
   In strength to bear what time cannot abate,
And feed on bitter fruits without accusing fate.

VIII.

   Something too much of this:  but now 'tis past,
   And the spell closes with its silent seal.
   Long-absent Harold reappears at last;
   He of the breast which fain no more would feel,
   Wrung with the wounds which kill not, but ne'er heal;
   Yet Time, who changes all, had altered him
   In soul and aspect as in age:  years steal
   Fire from the mind as vigour from the limb;
And life's enchanted cup but sparkles near the brim.

IX.

   His had been quaffed too quickly, and he found
   The dregs were wormwood; but he filled again,
   And from a purer fount, on holier ground,
   And deemed its spring perpetual; but in vain!
   Still round him clung invisibly a chain
   Which galled for ever, fettering though unseen,
   And heavy though it clanked not; worn with pain,
   Which pined although it spoke not, and grew keen,
Entering with every step he took through many a scene.

X.

   Secure in guarded coldness, he had mixed
   Again in fancied safety with his kind,
   And deemed his spirit now so firmly fixed
   And sheathed with an invulnerable mind,
   That, if no joy, no sorrow lurked behind;
   And he, as one, might midst the many stand
   Unheeded, searching through the crowd to find
   Fit speculation; such as in strange land
He found in wonder-works of God and Nature's hand.

XI.

   But who can view the ripened rose, nor seek
   To wear it? who can curiously behold
   The smoothness and the sheen of beauty's cheek,
   Nor feel the heart can never all grow old?
   Who can contemplate fame through clouds unfold
   The star which rises o'er her steep, nor climb?
   Harold, once more within the vortex rolled
   On with the giddy circle, chasing Time,
Yet with a nobler aim than in his youth's fond prime.

XII.

   But soon he knew himself the most unfit
   Of men to herd with Man; with whom he held
   Little in common; untaught to submit
   His thoughts to others, though his soul was quelled,
   In youth by his own thoughts; still uncompelled,
   He would not yield dominion of his mind
   To spirits against whom his own rebelled;
   Proud though in desolation; which could find
A life within itself, to breathe without mankind.

XIII.

   Where rose the mountains, there to him were friends;
   Where rolled the ocean, thereon was his home;
   Where a blue sky, and glowing clime, extends,
   He had the passion and the power to roam;
   The desert, forest, cavern, breaker's foam,
   Were unto him companionship; they spake
   A mutual language, clearer than the tome
   Of his land's tongue, which he would oft forsake
For nature's pages glassed by sunbeams on the lake.

XIV.

   Like the Chaldean, he could watch the stars,
   Till he had peopled them with beings bright
   As their own beams; and earth, and earth-born jars,
   And human frailties, were forgotten quite:
   Could he have kept his spirit to that flight,
   He had been happy; but this clay will sink
   Its spark immortal, envying it the light
   To which it mounts, as if to break the link
That keeps us from yon heaven which woos us to its brink.

XV.

   But in Man's dwellings he became a thing
   Restless and worn, and stern and wearisome,
   Drooped as a wild-born falcon with clipt wing,
   To whom the boundless air alone were home:
   Then came his fit again, which to o'ercome,
   As eagerly the barred-up bird will beat
   His breast and beak against his wiry dome
   Till the blood tinge his plumage, so the heat
Of his impeded soul would through his bosom eat.

XVI.

   Self-exiled Harold wanders forth again,
   With naught of hope left, but with less of gloom;
   The very knowledge that he lived in vain,
   That all was over on this side the tomb,
   Had made Despair a smilingness assume,
   Which, though 'twere wild--as on the plundered wreck
   When mariners would madly meet their doom
   With draughts intemperate on the sinking deck -
Did yet inspire a cheer, which he forbore to check.
 

Wednesday, July 18, 2012

London to Dover






Day One: London to Dover
Byron and Polidori left London on xxxxxxxx, bound for Geneva. Unable to travel through France, because of ….

We drove from London to Dover by way of the xxx; traffic in the other direction, from Dover to London, was bumper-to-bumper for miles and miles. This, we suspected, was traffic converging on London for the opening night of the Olympics. Against the popular will, we followed the alienated Byron out of London. We eventually left the motorway for the smaller road between xxxxxxx and Canterbury, which Byron no doubt took, and which Chaucer, an earlier poet, had memorialized in his Canterbury Tales.
Byron is a pilgrim too.
Byron’s journey is out into the world, from a narrow and provincial London life; on this night, the world was converging on London, with athletes from every country in the world, from Axxx to Zambia proudly and joyfully parading around the Olympic Stadium


Dover: Thoughts about Churchill, the ephemeral nature of the writer's fame.